Houseplants, seasonal guide
Winter houseplant care.
Light changes, watering changes and feeding changes too. Here is what actually shifts between October and March, and what to do about it.
- WaterCheck the compost first
- FeedingLittle or none
- LightThe brightest spot you have
Winter, stage by stage
Houseplants do not run on the same routine in December as in July. Here is how the months usually run in a heated UK home.
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Stage 1
Autumn, October and November
The light fades and growth slows. Move plants out of dark corners into your brightest spot, wipe dusty leaves so more light gets in, and start watering a little less.
FeedingEase off, then stop as growth stops
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Stage 2
Midwinter, December and January
The quietest weeks. Most plants barely grow, so they use little water and no feed. Keep them warm, away from draughts, and leave them alone.
FeedingNone for most plants
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Stage 3
Late winter, February
Days lengthen, but growth is still slow. Keep watering sparing until the plant comes into active growth. A good moment to check for pests and clean the leaves.
FeedingNot yet
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Stage 4
Spring restart, March and April
New leaves are the signal. Water a little more, repot if the plant needs it, and start feeding again once you see new growth.
FeedingRestarts with new growth
What actually changes
Light, water, warmth, humidity and feeding all move at once. Pick one to see what to do.
Light: the biggest change
Shorter, weaker daylight is what slows everything down. Move plants out of dark corners, spare rooms and behind drawn curtains into a bright spot. A sunny windowsill suits many plants until March, and a spot that scorches leaves in summer can be the best one in winter. A north-facing sill is usually too dim.
Dust cuts the light reaching a leaf, so wipe smooth leaves with a damp cloth and use a soft brush on hairy ones.
- Best spotThe brightest you have
- Watch forPale, leggy growth stretching towards the window
- TryWipe the leaves, and turn the pot now and then
Water: less, and by touch
Growth slows, so plants use less water. Push a finger a few centimetres into the compost and lift the pot to feel its weight, rather than watering on a fixed day. In winter the compost should be barely moist. Overwatering is the most common way houseplants struggle at this time of year.
A short while after watering, tip away any water left in the saucer or decorative pot cover so the roots are not left standing in it.
- CheckA finger test, and the weight of the pot
- After wateringEmpty the saucer and the pot cover
- Too much looks likeYellow leaves that drop, mould, mushy stems
Warmth: avoid the extremes
Keep plants away from radiators and fires, which crisp leaf edges, and from draughts. Do not leave a plant on a windowsill behind the curtains on a frosty night, because the gap between curtain and glass can be much colder than the room.
How cold is too cold depends on the plant. The RHS gives tender ferns a minimum of 10°C and moth orchids 16°C, for example.
- AvoidRadiators, draughts and cold glass
- On frosty nightsMove plants into the room
- MinimumsDepend on the plant, so check yours
Humidity: a small fix at best
Central heating dries the air, and tropical plants often show it with brown leaf tips. Grouping plants together helps a little and a humidifier helps more. Misting only lasts a few minutes, so treat it as a bonus rather than a fix, and skip it on hairy leaves such as African violets.
- HelpsGrouping plants, or a humidifier
- LimitedMisting lasts minutes
- Watch forBrown, crisp leaf tips
Feeding: little or none
Most houseplants slow down or stop growing in winter, and feed they cannot use builds up in the compost. Cacti and succulents need none. If a plant is still putting out new leaves in a bright spot, a light feed is fine. Start again when new growth appears in spring.
- Most plantsLittle or none
- Cacti and succulentsNone
- RestartWith new growth in spring
A winter survival checklist
Eight small things that do most of the work.
- Move plants out of dark cornersA bright spot matters more in winter than in summer.
- Keep them off windowsills behind curtains on frosty nightsThe gap can be much colder than the room.
- Water by touch, not by calendarFinger test and pot weight, and barely moist is enough.
- Empty saucers and pot covers after wateringRoots should not sit in water.
- Keep plants away from radiators and draughtsHeat and cold both crisp leaf edges.
- Wipe dusty leavesMore light reaches a clean leaf.
- Check leaf undersides for pestsMealybug and scale stay active all year indoors.
- Hold off repotting until springSlow growth raises the risk of soggy compost.
What winter problems look like
Most of them come down to water, light or heat.
| What you see | What it usually means | What to try |
|---|---|---|
| Yellow leaves that drop, and compost that stays wet | Too much water, the most common winter problem. | Let the compost dry a little, empty the saucer and water less often. |
| Crisp, brown leaf edges beside a radiator or window | Heat, or a cold draught. | Move the plant a little way away and see how it does. |
| Tiny flies around the compost | Fungus gnats, a sign the compost stays wet. The adults are harmless. | Let the top of the compost dry between waterings. |
| Pale, leggy growth stretching to the window | Too little light. | Move the plant somewhere brighter, and trim leggy stems with clean scissors. |
| Sticky leaves, white fluff or fine webbing | Sap-feeding pests such as mealybug, scale or spider mite, which do well in warm dry rooms. | Isolate the plant, wipe pests off with a cotton bud and check its neighbours. |
How to know it is time to start again
The signal is new growth, not the date on the calendar. When you see new leaves and the days are clearly longer, water a little more, wipe the leaves, and repot any plant that has outgrown its pot. Spring is the best time to repot.
Once a plant is growing again, it can have its first feed of the year. Our guide to feeding houseplants covers how.
Feeding restarts with growth
Feed a plant that is growing, not one that is only waking up. If you are unsure, wait a few more weeks.
Tend: Houseplant Food
Liquid houseplant food with a pump on top, for when your plants are growing again.
- How to useA splash around the base of the plant, then water it in. That is the direction on the back of the bottle.
- Size250ml bottle with a pump
- Also good to know100% natural, peat-free and made without synthetic chemicals.
Questions people ask
Do houseplants need feeding in winter?
Generally little or none. Most houseplants slow down or stop in winter, and feed they cannot use just builds up in the compost. Cacti and succulents need none. If a plant keeps making new leaves in a bright spot, a light feed is fine.
Why has my houseplant stopped growing in winter?
Shorter days mean less light, and less light means slower growth. It is normal for most houseplants and not usually something to fix with feed or water.
How often should I water in winter?
There is no fixed rule. Plants use less water when they grow slowly, so check the compost with a finger a few centimetres down and lift the pot to feel its weight. Water when it has dried a little, and let the excess drain away. Plants that store water, such as cacti, snake plants and ZZ plants, like to dry out between waterings.
Should I move my houseplants in winter?
It is worth checking. A spot that is bright and pleasant in summer can turn cold at night behind curtains, or too hot beside a radiator. A small move often matters more than any change to feeding.
Does misting help with dry air?
Only briefly. Misting lifts the humidity for a few minutes. Grouping plants together helps a little, and a humidifier helps more. Skip misting on hairy leaves, such as African violets.
Can I repot in winter?
It is best to wait for spring. Growth is slow in winter, so fresh compost is more likely to stay soggy. Repot when the plant is growing again.
What are the tiny flies around my plant?
Most likely fungus gnats. They are a sign that the compost is staying wet. The adults are harmless, but letting the top of the compost dry between waterings helps.
